One of Europe’s remaining wild rivers, the Vjosa flows for 272 kilometers, beginning in Greece's Pindus Mountains and continuing to Albania’s Adriatic coastline.
The river carves its way through rugged gorges and expansive valleys, its blue-green waters passing by ancient Illyrian ruins, age-old villages, and striking mountainous terrains.
Hosting over 1,100 species, including the critically endangered European eel, otters, and the elusive Egyptian vulture, the Vjosa is more than just a natural feature; it represents a vital lifeline for local communities and stands as a symbol of Albanian heritage and revitalization. Its clear turquoise waters support a wide array of life, as well as activities like agriculture, fishing, and an emerging eco-tourism sector.
In March 2023, the Vjosa earned the distinction of becoming Europe’s first Wild River National Park. This milestone aims to safeguard its diverse ecosystem and protect its unparalleled biodiversity.
“Rivers are among Europe’s most at-risk habitats, with less than 10% remaining free-flowing,” stated Beth Thoren, Patagonia's director of environmental action, whose organization collaborated with Albania’s government on this initiative. Thoren emphasized the rarity and value of rivers like the Vjosa. “Standing by the Vjosa, you realize what a truly ‘wild’ river looks like—untouched by dams, reservoirs, or artificial banks.”
Despite its protected status, challenges persist. For instance, the Kalivaç Dam project, once planned for the river, was abandoned in 2021 due to public backlash. However, environmental concerns remain, including the construction of Vlora International Airport near the Vjosa-Nartë Lagoon, an essential habitat for migrating birds. Additionally, recent laws allowing high-end tourism developments in protected areas have sparked fears of irreversible environmental damage, especially with prominent investors eyeing the region for luxury resorts.
During the journey downstream, after navigating challenging Class II and III rapids, the village of Çarshovë provided a much-needed stop. At a riverside restaurant owned by lifelong resident Ana Janku, a meal featured byrek, goulash, and fresh tzatziki—all sourced from her family’s farm. As she described her family’s generational reliance on the Vjosa, Janku expressed both relief over the prevention of the Kalivaç Dam and concerns about future developments that might threaten the river. “This river means everything to us,” she said. “We’ve cared for it long before it was officially protected.”
Vjosa Forever | Protect Europe’s Wild Rivers
Video by Patagonia
Further downstream, the river transformed into a communal hub, where locals swam in calm pools, leaped off cliffs, and fished quietly by the shore. Passing through a gorge near Kanikol, an eagle swooped gracefully towards the river, encapsulating the area’s thriving wildlife.
Between Kaludh and Përmet, a rafting tour with Vjosa Explorer allowed a safe passage through the river's more demanding stretches. Irma Tako, the company's founder, emphasized the importance of eco-tourism for local development while advocating for strict conservation measures. “This river is a treasure for us all, but its preservation requires vigilance and sustainable practices,” she noted.
As the journey neared its end, a visit to the hot springs at Bënjë provided a relaxing interlude. Nearby, the iconic Ottoman-era Kadiut Bridge added a sense of history to the experience. The final leg to Këlcyrë offered serene yet dramatic scenery, with towering peaks surrounding the river.
Throughout, the visible richness of life along the Vjosa is the result of efforts by local communities, activists, and international groups. Their collaboration has ensured the river's free-flowing waters and biodiversity remain intact, while also promoting sustainable development. “The Vjosa Wild River National Park is about more than nature,” said Thoren. “It safeguards the cultural and natural heritage of the entire region.”
The final day included navigating Këlcyrë Gorge, where the river’s powerful flow cut through dramatic cliffs and cascading waterfalls. As the river fanned into a braided network of channels, the landscape became otherworldly, with sunlit sandbars and emerald streams winding through the valley.
Olsi Nika, director of EcoAlbania, emphasized the balance needed between tourism and conservation. “The Vjosa is not ready for a tourism surge,” he said. “It has immense potential, but careful planning is essential to preserve its legacy for future generations.”
The journey concluded at the Adriatic coast. Vast nets hung from the riverbanks, and distant mountains provided a dramatic backdrop. The final stretch of paddling across the estuary was a humbling reminder of nature’s power and beauty.
Two key takeaways emerge from the Vjosa’s story: its designation as Europe’s first Wild River National Park is an environmental triumph with global significance, and the tireless efforts of conservationists and local communities have preserved one of Europe’s most extraordinary natural treasures.
